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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.